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Relationship between sensorial and physical characteristics of topical creams: a comparative study of effects of excipients
Malmö University, Faculty of Health and Society (HS), Department of Biomedical Science (BMV). Speximo AB, Medicon Village, SE-223 81 Lund, Sweden.
RISE Research Institutes of Sweden, Bioeconomy and Health, Perception and Design, Stockholm, Sweden.
Food Technology, Engineering and Nutrition, Lund University, Lund, Sweden.
Malmö University, Faculty of Health and Society (HS), Department of Biomedical Science (BMV). Malmö University, Biofilms Research Center for Biointerfaces.
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2022 (English)In: International Journal of Pharmaceutics, ISSN 0378-5173, E-ISSN 1873-3476, Vol. 613, p. 1-12, article id 121370Article in journal (Refereed) Published
Abstract [en]

Rising consumer demands for safer, more natural, and sustainable topical products have led to increased interest in finding alternative excipients, while retaining functionality and cosmetic appeal. Particle-stabilized Pickering creams have emerged as possible alternatives to replace traditional surfactant-stabilized creams and are thus one of the focuses in this study. The aim of this paper was to study relationships between sensorial characteristics and physical properties to understand how different excipients affect these aspects, comparing one starch particle–stabilized and three surfactant-stabilized formulations. A human panel was used to evaluate sensorial perception, while physical properties were deduced by rheology and tactile friction, together with in vivo and ex vivo skin hydration measurements.

The results show that sensorial attributes related to the application phase can be predicted with rheology, while afterfeel attributes can be predicted with tactile friction studies. Differences in rheological and sensory properties among surfactant-based creams could mainly be attributed to the type of emollients used, presence of thickeners and surfactant composition. Differences between surfactant-based creams and a Pickering cream were more evident in relation to the afterfeel perception. Presence of starch particles in the residual film on skin results in high tactile friction and low perception of residual coating, stickiness, greasiness, and slipperiness in sensorial afterfeel.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Elsevier, 2022. Vol. 613, p. 1-12, article id 121370
National Category
Basic Medicine
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:mau:diva-44945DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2021.121370ISI: 000736963200004PubMedID: 34952146Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-85122426677OAI: oai:DiVA.org:mau-44945DiVA, id: diva2:1585975
Available from: 2021-08-18 Created: 2021-08-18 Last updated: 2024-06-17Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Topical formulations, design and drug delivery: "A dive into water"
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Topical formulations, design and drug delivery: "A dive into water"
2021 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Water is a vital component regulating the properties of topical formulations and their interaction with biological barriers, such as skin and mucosa. Changing the watercontent within the frame of the pharmaceutical triangle will have a huge impact on which type of formulation, such as a cream, ointment, gel, or lotion, is formed, as well as the physical properties of the formulation. The composition of a formulation, and the subsequent reformulation after application, will govern the features of the residual film. This will in turn affect the barrier properties of the underlying tissue and consequently the penetration of various substances across skin or mucosa.The primary aim of this thesis has been to provide further understanding on differences between traditional surfactant-based formulations and particle-stabilized, Pickering, formulations and how specific excipients, like alcohols, emollients, and thickeners can affect their physical and/or sensorial properties. The secondary aim has been to gain more knowledge on the role of water in topical formulations and how it affects the properties of the underlaying tissue on application.

By combining a portfolio of physicochemical techniques combined with sensory science, we have been able to identify differences between Pickering and surfactantstabilized formulations. Starch-based Pickering emulsions were perceived as less greasy and sticky than traditional creams, even at high oil content. Moreover, we were able develop a novel type of alcohol-based Pickering emulsion with combined moisturizing and antiseptic properties. We have also been able to link sensory attributes, evaluated by human volunteers, with physicochemical characterizations. Furthermore, the in vitro ForceBoard™ method was developed further and we evaluated its potential to be used as an ex vivo method using excised skin. In addition, we have shown that that the water gradient over a biological barrier has a general relevance with respect to drug absorption and should be considered not only in dermaldrug delivery but also for buccal and nasal drug delivery.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Malmö: Malmö universitet, 2021. p. 72
Series
Malmö University Health and Society Dissertations, ISSN 1653-5383 ; 3
Keywords
water, topical formulations, Pickering emulsion, skin cream, drug delivery, tactile friction, sensory panel, nasal, buccal, mucosa, skin, triglycerides, ethanol, drug transport, cosmetic appeal
National Category
Basic Medicine
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:mau:diva-44964 (URN)10.24834/isbn.9789178772049 (DOI)9789178772032 (ISBN)9789178772049 (ISBN)
Public defence
2021-09-03, Aulan, Fakulteten för Hälsa och samhälle, Jan Waldenströms g. 25, Malmö, 13:30 (English)
Opponent
Available from: 2021-08-18 Created: 2021-08-18 Last updated: 2023-04-15Bibliographically approved

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Ali, AbdullahLavant, EvaEngblom, Johan

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