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Effects of water gradients and use of urea on skin ultrastructure evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy
Malmö högskola, Faculty of Health and Society (HS), Department of Biomedical Science (BMV).
Malmö högskola, Faculty of Health and Society (HS), Department of Biomedical Science (BMV).ORCID iD: 0000-0001-6254-8539
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2013 (English)In: Biochimica et Biophysica Acta - Biomembranes, ISSN 0005-2736, E-ISSN 1879-2642, Vol. 1828, no 11, p. 2470-2478Article in journal (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

The rather thin outermost layer of the mammalian skin, stratum corneum (SC), is a complex biomembrane which separates the water rich inside of the body from the dry outside. The skin surface can be exposed to rather extreme variations in ambient conditions (e.g. water activity, temperature and pH), with potential effects on the barrier function. Increased understanding of how the barrier is affected by such changes is highly relevant for regulation of transdermal uptake of exogenous chemicals. In the present study we investigate the effect of hydration and the use of a well-known humectant, urea, on skin barrier ultrastructure by means of confocal Raman microspectroscopy. We also perform dynamic vapor sorption (DVS) microbalance measurements to examine the water uptake capacity of SC pretreated with urea. Based on novel Raman images, constructed from 20 spectral maps, we can distinguish large water inclusions within the skin membrane exceeding the size of fully hydrated corneocytes. We show that these inclusions contain water with spectral properties similar to that of bulk water. The results furthermore show that the ambient water activity has an important impact on the formation of these water inclusions as well as on the hydration profile across the membrane. Urea significantly increases the water uptake when present in skin, as compared to skin without urea, and it promotes formation of larger water inclusions in the tissue. The results confirm that urea can be used as a humectant to increase skin hydration.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Elsevier, 2013. Vol. 1828, no 11, p. 2470-2478
Keywords [en]
Skin hydration, Water activity, Urea, Humectant, Confocal Raman microspectroscopy, Dynamic vapor sorption microbalance
National Category
Natural Sciences
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:mau:diva-15263DOI: 10.1016/j.bbamem.2013.06.011ISI: 000326143200014PubMedID: 23791705Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-84882644729Local ID: 16439OAI: oai:DiVA.org:mau-15263DiVA, id: diva2:1418784
Available from: 2020-03-30 Created: 2020-03-30 Last updated: 2024-02-05Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Humectants and skin: effects of hydration from molecule to man
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Humectants and skin: effects of hydration from molecule to man
2015 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Humectants belong to a group of hydrophilic compounds frequently used in skin care products with the aim to diminish the clinical symptom of skin dryness. The biochemical and biophysical mechanisms by which humectants interact with the skin barrier are far from fully understood. Increased understanding of such mechanisms can enhance the possibilities to tailor skin care products for various skin abnormalities.The work presented in this thesis centres on one high (hyaluronan) and two low (urea and glycerol) molecular weight humectants and their interactions with water, as well as their effect on the barrier properties of the outermost layer of the skin, i.e. the stratum corneum (SC). We explore the effect of hydration on thermodynamic properties of humectants, in particular hyaluronan, by using isothermal sorption calorimetry, differential scanning calorimetry and small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering. By combining data from several methods, a binary phase diagram of the hyaluronan - water system was constructed.We also investigate the effect of hydration and presence of humectants on the SC permeability in vitro by using an experimental set-up that allows for control of the boundary conditions in terms of water activity. In contrast to low molecular weight humectants, like urea and glycerol, it was concluded that hyaluronan (17 kDa) does not penetrate the skin barrier due to size exclusion. Addition of urea, glycerol or hyaluronan to aqueous formulations inevitably lowers the water activity of the formulation, which in tum affects the SC permeability when being applied. Moreover, it was shown that skin permeability of a model drug metronidazole decreases upon addition of hyaluronan to the formulation, while high skin permeability was maintained with addition of urea or glycerol. In addition, skin membrane electrical resistance, which normally increases at dehydrating skin conditions, remained low in presence of urea and glycerol.Excised skin hydrated at different hydration levels were examined with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Large water inclusions were observed in fully hydrated SC after 24h exposure to a buffer solution. Addition of urea was shown to promote the formation of these inclusions. Urea and glycerol were also shown to improve the hydration capacity of isolated comeocytes.Similar approach as used in vitro was employed in vivo to explore the effect of hydration and humectants on skin permeability. It was shown that the water activity of the applied formulations have a marked effect on the barrier properties and urea and glycerol was shown to improve skin hydration even at reduced water activity of the applied formulation.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Malmö University, 2015. p. 72
Series
Malmö University Health and Society Dissertations, ISSN 1653-5383 ; 1
Keywords
skin, stratum corneum, hydration, hyaluronan, glycerol, urea
National Category
Natural Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:mau:diva-7335 (URN)18372 (Local ID)9789171046239 (ISBN)9789171046246 (ISBN)18372 (Archive number)18372 (OAI)
Note

Note: The papers are not included in the fulltext online.

Paper I in dissertation as manuscript.

Available from: 2020-02-28 Created: 2020-02-28 Last updated: 2024-03-15Bibliographically approved

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Albèr, CathrineBjörklund, SebastianEngblom, Johan

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