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Effects of water activity and low molecular weight humectants on skin permeability and hydration dynamics: a double-blind, randomized and controlled study
Malmö högskola, Faculty of Health and Society (HS), Department of Biomedical Science (BMV).
Malmö högskola, Faculty of Health and Society (HS), Department of Biomedical Science (BMV).ORCID iD: 0000-0002-9852-5440
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2014 (English)In: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, ISSN 0142-5463, E-ISSN 1468-2494, Vol. 36, no 5, p. 412-418Article in journal (Refereed)
Abstract [en]

OBJECTIVES: The mammalian skin is a barrier that effectively separates the water-rich interior of the body from the normally dryer exterior. Changes in the external conditions, for example ambient humidity, have been shown to affect the skin barrier properties. The prime objective of this study was to evaluate the effect of water activity of a topical formulation on skin hydration and permeability. A second objective was to gain more understanding on how two commonly used humectants, urea and glycerol, affect skin barrier function in vivo. METHODS: Simple aqueous formulations were applied under occlusion to the volar forearm of healthy volunteers. Following 4-h exposure, skin water loss (by transepidermal water loss measurements), skin hydration (by Corneometry) and skin permeability (by time to vasodilation due to benzyl nicotinate exposure) were monitored. RESULTS: The results demonstrate that a relatively small change in the water activity of a topical formulation is sufficient to induce considerable effects on stratum corneum hydration and permeability to exogenous substances. Exposing the skin to high water activity leads to increased skin hydration and also increased permeability. Furthermore, urea and glycerol promote skin hydration and permeability even at reduced water activity of the applied formulation. CONCLUSION: These results highlight the importance of considering the water activity in topically applied formulations and the potential benefit of using humectants. The results may impact formulation optimization in how to facilitate skin hydration and to modify skin permeability by temporarily open and close the skin barrier.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
John Wiley & Sons, 2014. Vol. 36, no 5, p. 412-418
National Category
Natural Sciences
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:mau:diva-15173DOI: 10.1111/ics.12136ISI: 000342986600003PubMedID: 24786192Scopus ID: 2-s2.0-84908261524Local ID: 18359OAI: oai:DiVA.org:mau-15173DiVA, id: diva2:1418694
Available from: 2020-03-30 Created: 2020-03-30 Last updated: 2024-02-05Bibliographically approved
In thesis
1. Humectants and skin: effects of hydration from molecule to man
Open this publication in new window or tab >>Humectants and skin: effects of hydration from molecule to man
2015 (English)Doctoral thesis, comprehensive summary (Other academic)
Abstract [en]

Humectants belong to a group of hydrophilic compounds frequently used in skin care products with the aim to diminish the clinical symptom of skin dryness. The biochemical and biophysical mechanisms by which humectants interact with the skin barrier are far from fully understood. Increased understanding of such mechanisms can enhance the possibilities to tailor skin care products for various skin abnormalities.The work presented in this thesis centres on one high (hyaluronan) and two low (urea and glycerol) molecular weight humectants and their interactions with water, as well as their effect on the barrier properties of the outermost layer of the skin, i.e. the stratum corneum (SC). We explore the effect of hydration on thermodynamic properties of humectants, in particular hyaluronan, by using isothermal sorption calorimetry, differential scanning calorimetry and small- and wide-angle X-ray scattering. By combining data from several methods, a binary phase diagram of the hyaluronan - water system was constructed.We also investigate the effect of hydration and presence of humectants on the SC permeability in vitro by using an experimental set-up that allows for control of the boundary conditions in terms of water activity. In contrast to low molecular weight humectants, like urea and glycerol, it was concluded that hyaluronan (17 kDa) does not penetrate the skin barrier due to size exclusion. Addition of urea, glycerol or hyaluronan to aqueous formulations inevitably lowers the water activity of the formulation, which in tum affects the SC permeability when being applied. Moreover, it was shown that skin permeability of a model drug metronidazole decreases upon addition of hyaluronan to the formulation, while high skin permeability was maintained with addition of urea or glycerol. In addition, skin membrane electrical resistance, which normally increases at dehydrating skin conditions, remained low in presence of urea and glycerol.Excised skin hydrated at different hydration levels were examined with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Large water inclusions were observed in fully hydrated SC after 24h exposure to a buffer solution. Addition of urea was shown to promote the formation of these inclusions. Urea and glycerol were also shown to improve the hydration capacity of isolated comeocytes.Similar approach as used in vitro was employed in vivo to explore the effect of hydration and humectants on skin permeability. It was shown that the water activity of the applied formulations have a marked effect on the barrier properties and urea and glycerol was shown to improve skin hydration even at reduced water activity of the applied formulation.

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
Malmö University, 2015. p. 72
Series
Malmö University Health and Society Dissertations, ISSN 1653-5383 ; 1
Keywords
skin, stratum corneum, hydration, hyaluronan, glycerol, urea
National Category
Natural Sciences
Identifiers
urn:nbn:se:mau:diva-7335 (URN)18372 (Local ID)9789171046239 (ISBN)9789171046246 (ISBN)18372 (Archive number)18372 (OAI)
Note

Note: The papers are not included in the fulltext online.

Paper I in dissertation as manuscript.

Available from: 2020-02-28 Created: 2020-02-28 Last updated: 2024-03-15Bibliographically approved

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Albèr, CathrineKocherbitov, VitalyEngblom, Johan

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